Baroque church turned national pantheon, with tombs of Portuguese presidents, writers, and fado legend Amália Rodrigues. The rooftop terrace delivers sweeping Alfama and Tejo views without the castle crowds.
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Tour the marble interior and pay respects at Amália Rodrigues's tomb (fresh flowers always present). Climb to the rooftop terrace — the dome views and 360-degree panorama rival São Jorge at a fraction of the tourist density. The church interior's pink marble and symmetry are striking.
Tuesday or Saturday morning to combine with Feira da Ladra flea market on the adjacent square. Weekday afternoons for empty galleries. The terrace is excellent at sunset.
Construction began in 1682, took 284 years to complete (finished 1966) — a Portuguese joke about unfinished projects. Converted to national pantheon in 1916. Amália Rodrigues was entombed here in 1999, a controversial decision at the time (fado singer among presidents and poets), now celebrated. The Baroque architecture is pristine having been completed in the 20th century. The location in Alfama near Feira da Ladra makes it easy to combine. Far fewer visitors than the castle but comparable views.
