The suppli al telefono — a fried rice ball with a molten mozzarella core that stretches into long strings when you pull it apart, like a telephone cord (hence the name) — is Roman street food at its most elemental. This narrow Trastevere shopfront produces them with mechanical consistency: the rice is bound in tomato ragu, the mozzarella tucked into the centre, the whole thing breaded and fried to a crust that shatters on first bite and releases a rush of steam and melted cheese. The pizza al taglio is also excellent — thin, crisp, generously topped — and the filetti di baccala (fried salt cod) are a Roman street-food tradition done with respect. Counter service, trivial prices, outsized satisfaction.
Location
Trastevere, Rome
Insider Intel
Suppli al telefono — the classic tomato-ragu rice ball with molten mozzarella. The suppli cacio e pepe variant if available. Filetti di baccala (fried salt cod) for the Roman double. Pizza al taglio by the slice. A cold beer from the fridge to cut through the fried goodness.
Late morning through early evening for the freshest fry batches. Lunchtime is peak — the queue moves fast. A perfect pre-dinner Trastevere snack around 6pm before a later restaurant sitting.
Via di San Francesco a Ripa 137, Trastevere. Tram 8 to Piazza Sidney Sonnino, two-minute walk. Counter service — no seating. Suppli 2-3 euros each, pizza slices 3-5 euros. Cash preferred, cards accepted for larger amounts. The perfect Trastevere grazing stop.