Gabriele Bonci changed what pizza al taglio could be. Before Pizzarium, Roman pizza by the slice was a convenience — acceptable dough, predictable toppings, eaten standing on the way to somewhere else. Bonci treated the format as a canvas: seventy-two-hour fermented doughs that produce a crust simultaneously airy and crackling, topped with combinations that rotate daily and range from the classical (mortadella, stracciatella) to the unorthodox (pumpkin flower with anchovy, fig with lardo). The shop is small and unadorned — a glass counter, a few standing ledges outside, a queue that stretches down Via della Meloria — and the experience is transactional by design. You point, they cut, they weigh, you eat. The pizza speaks.
Location
Cipro / Vatican, Rome
Insider Intel
Point at whatever looks freshest on the counter — Bonci rotates toppings constantly. The mortadella with stracciatella is a reliable anchor. Potato and rosemary for pure dough appreciation. Seasonal combinations (artichoke, pumpkin flower, fig) are where Bonci's creativity peaks. Supplì are also excellent.
Midday (11:30-1pm) for the widest selection of fresh batches. The queue moves quickly — fifteen minutes is typical. Late afternoon sees diminished selection. Open seven days a week.
Via della Meloria 43, near the Vatican. Cipro metro (Line A), two-minute walk. Pizza sold by weight — point and they cut. Expect 5-10 euros for a satisfying meal. Cash and cards. Standing room only — eat at the ledge outside or walk. The queue is constant but fast.