Ancient fortress and cemetery on a cliff above the Vltava, south of the center. Legendary birthplace of Prague, burial site of Dvořák, Mucha, and Čapek. Far fewer tourists than Prague Castle, better atmosphere, equally important historically.
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Enter through the Brick Gate, walk the fortress walls for Vltava views, then visit Vyšehrad Cemetery where Czech cultural heroes are buried. The neo-Gothic Church of St. Peter and Paul is less impressive than St. Vitus but worth a look. The park grounds are excellent for a quiet afternoon away from Old Town chaos.
Afternoon for golden light on the cemetery sculptures. Sunset from the fortress walls is Prague at its most romantic. Sunday mornings are peaceful and local.
Founded in the 10th century, predating Prague Castle according to legend. Smetana's Má vlast (My Homeland) opens with Vyšehrad's mythic importance. The cemetery is the Pantheon of Czech culture — Dvořák, Smetana, Mucha, Čapek are all buried here under Art Nouveau monuments. The Slavín tomb is a massive shared memorial for 50+ artists. Locals come here for quiet walks and picnics. Metro C to Vyšehrad station, then a 10-minute walk.