Smoking Goat (Shoreditch)

Late-night Thai barbecue in a Shoreditch basement, from the Kiln team — fish-sauce wings, laab, and natural wines pouring into the small hours. The fish-sauce chicken wings are essential; the laab, whatever's on the grill, and the well-chosen natural wines do the rest. Come late, since it stays open until 1am most nights, when the basement energy suits the hour. It is where Thai barbecue meets a natural-wine bar, and the combination works better than it has any right to — bold, smoky cooking and funky low-intervention wine in a dark room that gets better the later it gets. The wings alone are worth the trip.