Tomos Parry's live-fire restaurant above a Shoreditch pub, where a Welsh chef trained in Basque grilling techniques cooks whole turbot, aged beef, and seasonal vegetables over charcoal and wood in an open kitchen that fills the room with smoke and the smell of things burning in the best possible way. The whole turbot — a flat fish the size of a serving platter, grilled until the skin blisters and the flesh pulls from the bone — is the dish that earned a Michelin star and defines the restaurant's ambition. Parry grew up on Anglesey and trained at Brat's spiritual ancestor, Asador Etxebarri in the Basque Country. The room is upstairs, above the Crown & Shuttle pub, and the view of the open kitchen — flames, smoke, the focused choreography of cooks working a grill — is part of what you're paying for.
Location
Shoreditch, London
Insider Intel
The whole turbot if your table can handle it — it serves two to three and is the dish. Failing that, any whole fish from the grill. The aged beef for a different register. Starters from the grill: the bread (grilled, with dripping), the mussels, the grilled greens. Dessert is an afterthought because the fire is the point. The wine list is short, Spanish-leaning, and well-chosen.
Dinner for the full drama of the open fire — the kitchen is most theatrical at night. Lunch is calmer and the set menu offers value. Book well ahead — the Michelin star made reservations competitive.
Reservations essential — book via the website, several weeks ahead for dinner. Above the Crown & Shuttle pub, Redchurch Street, Shoreditch. Shoreditch High Street overground. Whole turbot approximately £65 for the table. Mains £20-35. The Michelin star (awarded 2020) is deserved. Shoreditch location means the surrounding galleries, shops, and bars provide context.