El Pastor

A taqueria under the railway arches near Borough, from the Barrafina team — al pastor carved off the trompo, just as in Mexico City, with a serious mezcal list and a buzzing queue. The al pastor tacos are the point, with the tuna tostada alongside and mezcal from the extensive list to drink. No reservations; come early evening to beat the line, with the arches lending atmosphere. It is one of London's most convincing Mexican rooms — the trompo is the real technique, not a prop, and the result is tacos with genuine smoke and char, washed down with agave spirits chosen by people who care.