Bright

Seasonal, produce-driven cooking above the P. Franco wine bar in Hackney — a short menu that changes constantly with the market, focused and excellent. Trust whatever is on; the kitchen builds around what is good that day, and the wine selection downstairs is worth a visit in its own right. Come in the evening, and consider the wine bar below before or after. It is East London's idea of neighbourhood fine dining: unfussy, ingredient-led, genuinely seasonal, the sort of small room where the brevity of the menu is a sign of confidence rather than limitation. Quietly one of the area's best.