Sevilla's oldest bar, established in 1670, where the ritual is as important as the food. Bartenders chalk your tab on the wooden counter, jamón hangs from the ceiling, and the menu hasn't changed much since the Baroque period. It's touristy now, yes, but locals still come for espinacas con garbanzos, carrillada, and the sense that they're drinking in the same spot their grandparents did. The tiles are original, the vibe is warm, and it holds its history lightly.
Location
Map
Insider Intel
Espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas, a Sevillano staple), carrillada (braised pork cheeks), and a caña. The rabo de toro is also excellent if you're in a meaty mood.
Midday (1-3pm) for the full lunch experience, or early evening (6-8pm) for tapas and a glass of wine without the dinner rush.
It's popular with tourists, so expect crowds and a bit of chaos. Service can be brusque—it's not rude, it's just efficient. Cash is king. And yes, they really do chalk your tab on the bar.