An industrial warehouse on Piazza dell'Emporio in Testaccio — Rome's most authentically Roman neighbourhood, where the old slaughterhouse district has been repurposed into cultural spaces and the nightlife is generated by locals rather than guidebooks. Rec 23 occupies a high-ceilinged space with exposed brick, metal fixtures, and the particular aesthetic of a building that was built for work and converted for pleasure. The cocktails are creative and well-priced, DJ sets run on weekends, and the crowd is young, Roman, and disinterested in impressing anyone. Testaccio provides the context: this is the neighbourhood of Flavio al Velavevodetto, of the MACRO museum, of the Protestant Cemetery where Keats is buried. Rec 23 belongs to its neighbourhood in a way that Centro Storico bars cannot.
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The cocktail menu rotates seasonally — the bartenders build creative drinks at accessible prices. A Moscow Mule variation is usually on offer and suits the industrial setting. Beer is a solid option on DJ nights when the energy favours drinking quickly. Pair with dinner at a Testaccio trattoria beforehand.
Late evening, from 10pm, when the DJ sets start and the Testaccio nightlife crowd arrives. Earlier for a calmer cocktail. Thursday through Saturday for energy. The neighbourhood rewards exploration before you settle in.
Piazza dell'Emporio 2, Testaccio. Piramide metro (Line B). Cocktails EUR 8-12. No reservations needed. DJ nights on weekends may have a small cover. The Testaccio neighbourhood is the real Rome — pair the bar with dinner nearby at Flavio or Da Remo. Cards accepted.