Centro Storico is Naples turned up. Decumani streets cut through layers of history, lined with shrines, laundry, and neon pharmacy crosses blinking over sfogliatella stacks. University crowds mix with priests and antique sellers.
Neapolitan pizza ovens glow late; espresso is served fast and strong at counters that have seen every revolution. Underground, catacombs and Greek walls remind you the city is built on itself. Above, balconies speak to each other with plants and gossip.
Bars range from rock basements off Piazza Bellini to tiny negroni spots where the bartender free-pours with accuracy. Churches open onto noisy piazzas; quiet is a brief guest. Walk with purpose, keep an eye on scooters, and let the street noise become part of the soundtrack.