Flower-market Sundays, proper East End pubs, and cocktail bars nobody signposts.
Daytime
(5)Columbia Road Flower Market (Sun), Hackney Road independents, the walk east to Victoria Park
Columbia Road Flower Market
Sunday-only street market of cut flowers and plants filling a Victorian terrace of some sixty independent shops between Hackney Road and Gosset Street; open 8am until about 3pm.
The Palm Tree
A 1935 Truman's pub left standing alone in Mile End Park after the Blitz and slum clearance. Oval bar, gold chintz, red light, cash till from the 1960s, live jazz at weekends. Same family since the 1970s.
E Pellicci
A Grade II listed Italian cafe on Bethnal Green Road that has been feeding East London since 1900 — the Formica tables, the wood-panelled walls, the art deco marquetry interior designed by Achille Capocci in 1946, and the Pellicci family (now in their fourth generation) who call everyone "darling" and serve a full English breakfast with the warmth of people who have been doing this for 125 years. E Pellicci is not a specialty coffee shop — it is a caff, a London institution that serves builder's tea, fried eggs, and sausages in a room that is both architecturally significant (the Capocci interior is genuinely beautiful) and socially irreplaceable. The Kray twins ate here. The current regulars are Bethnal Green locals who treat the counter as a community centre. The espresso is made on a machine that Mama Pellicci oversees with the same attention she gives to the fry-up.
The Carpenter's Arms
Former Truman's corner pub on Cheshire Street, once bought by the Krays for their mother, now a calm free house with eleven taps, a serious Belgian lambic list, rare whiskies and a small back garden.
The Marksman
1860s Hackney Road corner pub where chefs Tom Harris and Jon Rotheram kept the panelled bar as a proper drinking room and put the restaurant upstairs in Martino Gamper's timber dining room. Michelin Pub of the Year 2017.
Evening & Night
(1)Backstreet pubs, Satan’s Whiskers, Bethnal Green Road late bars