Named for the Andalusian painter and gender-bending performance icon who scandalised and delighted the Plaça Reial of the 1970s, Ocaña fills three floors of the square's south side with baroque-bohemian rooms — chandeliers, votive candles, faded portraits — a café-terrace on the plaza, and the Apotheke cocktail bar below. It is theatrical by inheritance rather than by design brief, and at night it is the square's beating heart.
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A cocktail downstairs in the Apotheke bar, or a vermouth on the plaza terrace while the square performs.
Terrace at golden hour; the inner rooms and basement bar from midnight, especially weekends.
A three-floor bohemian landmark on Plaça Reial — café by day, bar and club by night. The terrace is prime; the candlelit interior is the deeper cut.