Since 1939, Hawelka has been the bohemian answer to Central's grandeur—smaller, smokier, more intimate, with nicotine-stained walls and a legendary collection of artwork traded for coffee tabs. The Hawelka family ran it for generations, attracting artists, writers, and night owls. The buchteln (sweet yeast buns) baked by Frau Hawelka became legendary. It's been renovated since her passing, but the spirit remains. This is Vienna's artistic soul in cafe form.
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Melange and buchteln (available after 10pm). The coffee is strong and correct. The buchteln arrive warm with plum jam and are non-negotiable.
Late evening after 10pm when the buchteln emerge and the crowd shifts to artists and insomniacs. Afternoons work too, but night is when it shines.
Cash only. Small space, expect to wait. Smoky atmosphere (they've tried to manage it). Service is gruff but legendary. The buchteln alone are worth the pilgrimage.