Vomero sits above the chaos with a calmer heartbeat. Funiculars lift you from Toledo or Chiaia to a hill of tree-lined avenues, bookshops, and gelaterie that take their pistachio seriously. Piazza Vanvitelli is the hub; from there you wander to Castel Sant'Elmo and the Certosa di San Martino for views that redraw the entire bay.
Bars here lean refined: well-made spritzes, vermouth on tap, bartenders who take time with ice. Weekend evenings bring families for passeggiate and couples for panoramic photos. Mercatino Antignano offers produce and street food by day; after dark, pizzerias and bistros fill slowly.
Vomero shows a different Naples—still loud, but with room to breathe and a breeze that arrives sooner than in the alleys below, especially when the lower quarters are holding onto the day’s heat.